The official blog of UK based whipmakers, BDSM toy creators and general purveyors of pervery, Edgeplay and Impact-Toys. We specialise in handmade kinky toys such as whips, floggers and dragon tails as well as medical play, edge play, premium sex toys (including Tantus, Tenga and Lelo), heavy metal bondage, electro sex and more. We are official vendors for E-Stim and Cold Steel, as well as our own range of custom toys that we make by hand in the UK.
Just a quick one to let you know that we offer 10% discount codes for recommendations of our kit! It doesn’t matter how long ago you bought it – write a great review and link it to us via FetLife (@Edgeplay_co_uk) or e-mail (email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org). Reviews can be posted on FetBook, FetLife, the product pages on our websites, your own personal blog or website, Tumblr… it doesn’t matter! As long as we can find it and link other customers to it.
A few Ts&Cs just to keep things fair for everyone:
Reviews should be stand-alone posts – while we of course LOVE comments on our pictures and threads, to get 10% off codes your review needs to be a writing, article, photo-set, thread etc in it’s own right or a review on the product pages on our website.
Reviews should contain a link to Impact-Toys.com or Edgeplay.co.uk if being posted off-site
Reviews need to be of reasonable length – again, we LOVE it when you get excited about our kit and have great things to say about it even if it’s just a couple of words, but to qualify for 10% off codes the review needs to be at least a couple of paragraphs and give a good description of the item and how you’ve enjoyed using it
Reviews need to remain available as long as possible – we collect the reviews so that we can make them available to our customers, so in order to qualify for the 10% off codes the review needs to be in a format that we can provide a link to and stay ‘live’ online
We offer one 10% code per review, per order – if you place three orders and write three reviews, that’s 3 x 10% codes! If you place one order for three items and write three reviews, we’ll love you forever but that’s only one 10% code (sorry!)
You don’t have to own something to review it! If you had a great experience with one of our toys then get typing and claim your 10% code
So what are you waiting for? Dust off your keyboard and let us know how much you’ve enjoyed your toys!
So I have already moved the whip making forwards and started using leather shot bags and bolsters in the core of my whips, moving on from the lead weighted core I developed over the past few years.
It has been an amazingly steep learning curve, just from changing one thing.
My new leather splitter has arrived as well - who would have thought shaving off 0.25mm of leather would make so much difference to the thickness of a whip?
Now comes an even bigger learning curve… I have been making whips “wrong” for 4 years! Well, not “wrong” exactly… read on and you’ll find out.
When I started making whips I used a ball chain core which made the whips very thin. To get a decent 16 plait I would add an extra belly to give it some bulk and taper, meaning my 16 plait whips had two plaited bellies. As I progressed onto lead weighted whips I just adjusted the strands of weight down to achieve the desired diameter and taper, giving a nice weight and feel in the hand.
So I move onto using shot bags and apply the same formula: shot bag core, 8 plait belly, 12 plait belly, 16 plait overlay. The whips are turning out a bit chunkier than I was previously making them – not a huge difference, just about 25mm (+/- a few mm) in diameter but they are quite chunky, very much an American style whip. The trouble being that if I wanted to slim down the whips a little, I’d have to make the shot bag narrower and if I did this too much, I couldn’t get the lead shot down the whip far enough to be effective, leaving me with a quandary!
Also I could never work out why it takes me so long to make a 6 footer 16 plait when other whip makers are doing them in half the time when our speeds are comparable on a 12 plait. Mystery!
After a couple of conversations with a couple of the UK’s top whipmakers, I have come to the decision I have been making them “wrong”… now when I say wrong, I mean I am doing more work than necessary. There is no need for the second belly with a 16 plait shot bag whip as there is enough weight and taper built into it, so effectively I have been over engineering them and doing far more work than most if not all whipmakers are doing in synthetic whips with a shot bag core. This also means that comparatively I have been underselling my 16 plait work compared to the amount of work other makers are putting into theirs (about 100 foot of extra cord plaiting or 2-3 hours).
So I redesigned my 16 plait bullwhip last night and proceeded to make a single belly 16 plait 6 foot and wow! What can I say? It was a real eureka moment. Not only is the whip sleeker (about 22mm at the handle), it is more responsive and has some real life to it. My heavier ‘American Style’ whips with the two bellies are great for targeting but this is a totally different animal.
When I first started making whips someone said to me “you never stop learning”. This is just so true! You never do… you never stop learning, evolving and making a better whip, trying construction methods, trying new dimensions and materials keep trying to push the envelope.
So, this is the MKVI bullwhip 16 plait 6 foot
Thats the head scratching over with until the next time I find something I want to change/improve/modify.
Oh, and for all you lovers of big heavy American style whips, do not fear! I am not doing away with the old faithful 2 belly 16 plait. It will be available still but priced more in line with the amount of work involved in it.
This month we went a bit DC crazy and made a set of toys themed after The Joker and Harley Quinn from the Batman comics. The set includes two large floggers and two 4 foot premium snake whips, each coloured and themed after one of the characters.
While it was a fun project, it was also a great showcase for our themed toys – we have so many leather and cord colours to choose from that we can make almost any of our toys suit a particular character, sports team, family crest… you name it! Add one of our glass conchos with a custom image for that perfect, finishing touch.
We add popular themes to our Themed Toys section – we have Dr Who, Hello Kitty, Batman and Jack Daniels, to name a few. But you don’t need to choose from just those designs! The options for our custom toys give you the flexibility to make any theme your heart desires, and if you can’t find something you want, just pop us an e-mail and we’ll see what we can do!
We are often asked what whip we would recommend for a beginner. The huge variety of whip types, materials and lengths often puts people off taking the leap as it can seem impossibly intimidating to work out which is the right whip to start with. Not to mention it can be a costly mistake to end up with a whip that just isn’t suited to you!
So we thought we’d do a little post about our tips for those new to the world of whips:
1) Price - how much can you afford to spend and what are you getting for your money?
While it can be tempting to start off with a £12 whip from Ann Summers because it seems sensible to start with something cheap, you’ll just end up with a useless bit of kit and some poor experiences. The cheap whips that are mass produced (often from reconstituted ‘leather’ fabric or PVC) are not intended for serious impact play or fancy cracking, and they are little more than props for roleplay. They do not move or function as a true singletail whip should.
On the other end of the scale, you have the beautiful (and costly!) kangaroo hide singletails made by the world’s top whipmakers. These creations are true works of art and will give you an experience like no other, but they will also set you back several hundred of your hard earned. A costly mistake indeed if you find yourself with a whip that doesn’t suit your needs! It must also be considered that a top quality ‘roo hide whip can be very easily damaged by inexperienced hands. Many top whipmakers will actually down-sell a newbie to a cheaper whip to use while they are still learning the basics.
So what do we recommend? A mid range whip from a quality whipmaker who can provide you with a synthetic option is a route that is increasingly popular. You want a whip that will perform well and get you into good habits, but that you are not afraid to use because of it’s value. Don’t be afraid to ask around and e-mail the whipmaker to see what they would recommend, and to find out more about their whips!
Tip One: Get a mid-range whip from a professional whipmaker that you can actually talk to!
2) “Wait, what was that about synthetic options? I thought whips were made of leather?”
A synthetic whip is easier to care for than leather and you can get ‘more bang for your buck’ in the sense that you can find a great whip that flies true without the expense of premium ‘roo hide. There used to be a lot of stigma against synthetic whips – they were ‘the new kid on the block’ and many old hands found them hard to get along with. However, as the synthetic whipmaking profession gained experience and synthetic whips became more common, it is now possible to find synthetic whips of excellent quality that can rival a good ‘roo hide whip in terms of performance, and for a fraction of the price!
Synthetic whips are usually made of paracord, a form of kernmantle cord. Kernmantle means the cord has inner strands (the kern) surrounded by a woven outer sheath (the mantle). Paracord is incredibly strong and highly suited for synthetic whipmaking. There are other cords used for synthetic whipmaking, but paracord is the most common. You can read more about the paracord that we use here.
Why spend upwards of £200 on a ‘roo hide that you may well end up damaging when you can get a great starter whip in a highly durable and strong material for less than half the price?
Tip Two: Consider synthetic!
3) Construction – what you want, and what to look out for
While the specifics of how a given whipmaker constructs their whips will vary, there are several tried and tested elements that all great whips have in common.
Firstly, the very centre of the whip is weighted. This may be done in several ways – top quality whips have what is called a ‘shot bag’ which is a tapered leather bag that is then filled with fine lead shot. Other methods include filling paracord strands with shot or steel ball bearings, using strands of leather curtain weight or using lengths of fine ball chain. Different whipmakers have different preferences depending on their skill level, the type of whips they produce and the materials they have access to.
Secondly, the weighted core is then bolstered and bound to give it stability and improve the taper and then covered in what is called a ‘belly’, which is a layer of plaiting over the core. This layer will look a lot like the outer layer of the whip and hence the term ‘a whip within a whip’. This layer of plaiting further builds out the whip and provides yet more taper, while keeping the whip flexible.
Thirdly, the overlay plait is added which is the final layer that you see on the outside of the whip. This plaiting should be tight and neat, with no obvious gaps or twisted/crossed strands. The overlay may have a fancy pattern or may be quite plain – this is purely a matter of preference. What really matters is that the plaiting is smooth and the whip tapers down in a consistent (i.e. not lumpy) way.
Finally, the whip is finished with it’s fall and cracker (if it has them), and usually some knot work for decoration.
There are several things you want to be wary of when buying a whip. Cheaper whips often have little more than some rope or rags to pad out the inside. We recently disassembled an imported leather whip from an unknown source (most likely mass produced from the look of it) and found that under the cheap leather was just string and some hessian sacking! No wonder the whip was so floppy. Speaking of floppy, you don’t want a whip that looks a bit like a dead worm! It should feel firm under the plaiting, not squishy, and shouldn’t feel as though you could crumple it up like a soggy noodle. On the other hand, it needs to be flexible enough that it will curl up in and not just poke out like a stick. And watch out for that plaiting – fancy designs aside, it is smooth and even? Are there lots of obvious gaps? Does the pattern seem to wobble about a lot or is it pleasing and consistent? If you look at the whip (or, if you can, run your hand down it), does it smoothly taper from the pommel to the cracker, or is it lumpy and seems to get thinner and then thicker and then thinner? What about the weight? Is is really light in the hand and feels flyaway? Is it so heavy it seems to wrench your arm when you throw it? A great whip is like an extension of your arm – not too light, not too heavy.
If it doesn’t look or feel right, don’t let anyone pressure you and don’t settle for a whip that seems badly weighted, lumpy and full of gaps just because it’s a bit cheaper than the competition.
Tip Three: Ask about the construction!
4) Length and type – what is the whip for?
First, you need to have a clear idea of what you want to achieve with your whip. Are you interested in fancy cracking, tricks and stunts? Or do you want to explore the delights of S&M whipping?
If you want to explore fancy cracking, a handled whip is a great place to start. This would generally mean getting either a bull whip or a stock whip. For a beginner, a bull whip is probably the easier option to get to grips with. Length wise, you want something long enough that the action of the whip isn’t too sudden, but short enough that you can focus on learning the cracks rather than focusing on the quirks of a monster whip. For cracking and trick work, a lot of people start with a 6 foot bull whip. We’d recommend anything from 5-8 feet – any shorter and the action gets uncomfortably quick for learning fancy cracks, and any longer and you could end up with a very slow whip that is very intimidating to use!
For these kinds of whips, you really need access to an outdoor space or hall/warehouse to practice.
For learning to play with whips in BDSM, you are better starting with something smaller that you can use indoors and that has a little less power. A 3 or 4 foot snake or signal (no handle) is a common choice to start out, but a 4 foot bull could also work well for you. If you go too short (such as a 3 foot bull or a 2 foot snake), then you’ll end up with a whip that is a bit of a one trick pony and that doesn’t help you learn the basic cracks as well as a slightly longer whip due to how fast it needs to be thrown. A common mistake when learning to crack is trying to ‘snatch’ the whip and this is especially tempting with a short whip. A very short whip is a great thing to have in your kit bag once you’ve got the hang of the basic cracks and are confident using a whip in play.
Tip Four: Think about what you want it for!
So, which of our whips would we recommend for a beginner?
The fall of a whip wears out … its one of the parts of the whip under the most strain when you crack it
even more so if you havent got a cracker / popper on it
even leather whip falls wear they get on the ground hit things at supersonic speeds and generally take a heap of abuse no matter what your fall is made out of it will degrade and need replacing over time
so here is my easy guide to running repairs on synthetic whip falls (doesnt matter if they are nylon or PET its the same for both )
so your fall should look like this when new…
its a piece of paracord half hollowed out then looped back on itself the inners stop an inch to an inch and a half before the end of the fall and that last bit is totally hollow ( or should be)
sometimes a cracker / popper comes off and you dont notice you crack the whip a few times and the end of the fall starts to fluff up like this…
not a problem snip the fluffy bits (or dont) and melt the end of the fall with a lighter and squish it flat with some pliers / grips/ fingers(if yours brave or have asbestos hands like me) anything that will flatten and melt the end together to stop it fraying any more re attach the cracker and away you go …
if you have left it a bit too long…. or you have had to melt it back a few times you can end up with you fall looking like this …
still dont panic.. now this is a little more fiddly but totally repairable
for ease of photography I have done the cord in 2 colours so you can see what is going on the inner cord (with the core still in it) is red the outer is black bear in mind on your whip both parts will be the same colour and the core will be white
what you need to do is slide back the outer layer of the paracord leaving the inner layer with the core exposed
snip off about an inch of the inner paracord and then singe the end to a nice rounded shape please be careful doing this they melt at quite high temperatures Nylon hotter than PET and they can and will catch fire so ensure there is no flame before squishing it with your fingers if you choose that way
now slide the outer cord sheath over the inner so you have an inch to an inch and a half of empty cord
I am pointing to where the inner stops
snip off the end square singe the end of the cord this time making it flat I like to have a good chunk melted as it seems to strengthen the fall from fraying
then you can attach your popper / cracker
tools required: a pair of scissors, a lighter and (optional) something to squish the hot cord like pliers or grips etc
perfectly do’able in the field
Alternatively send your whip back to me If I made it and ill change it for you FOC, all you pay is the postage to and from
Please note that this will shorten the fall of a whip and the fall will eventually need total replacement
It will make the whip feel different due to the shorter fall
Over the last couple of months we have experimented with some great new styles of flogger, whip and dragon.
Here is a run down of some of our new creations and where you can order them:
Rabbit Fur with Leather Flogger
All the decadence and sensuality of our rabbit fur floggers, but with extra thump due to the leather falls concealed within the fur. Available as custom order in a wide variety of colours.
We don’t normally keep hair-on-hide leather in stock so these are very much a limited edition. We currently have one available and we can discuss custom requests via e-mail. The hair gives the flogger great ‘strokeability’ and makes for an interesting scratchy sensation when the flogger is used.
A new variant of bull whip for us, this whip features an exposed wooden handle instead of our normal plaited handle. Very ergonomic and makes for quite a striking whip!
The Mark VI Bull Whip
After much experimentation and development, Daz launched the newest incarnation of our bull whip, the Mark VI. The Mark VI nestles between our usual 12 plait (single belly) and 16 plait (double belly) versions, and features a 16 plait overlay with a single belly (as well as some other secret developments!). It gives the option for a lighter, more responsive whip that is more akin to the Australian bull whip style. We have since expanded this option to our entire range. You can find this option on all of our premium whips now.
Double Ended Flogger
Gorgeous hardwood handle with a generous bunch of leather or suede falls at both ends, with the option to have the handle hand engraved with a unique design. Check it out here
A variant of our standard flogger designs. The medium flail features 10 wide cut falls in a heavy leather or suede, perfect for punishment. The large flail is the largest flogger we make, with spectacular 24 inch falls and a long handle for extra leverage. Available in a stingy or thumpy variety.
Any new designs you’d like to see? Let us know! You can get in touch via: